The northeast of Tunisia: Cap Bon & Tunis
Read my brain:
✿ Really worth doing!
✎ Not worth it, unless you have time to spare!
Introduction to Tunisia
Tunisia's people are known for their conviviality. They like to have an easygoing approach to life! And this is exactly the vibe you’ll get from a trip here. Sometimes it will relax your mind, sometimes it might drive you a bit mad especially if you are used to a more organized, comfortable life back home.
Nevertheless, their mood really resonates with the landscape: calm, completely savage, untouched (sometimes even to the point of being too dirty and polluted by humans), and “retro” if you know what I mean! Here, it feels the time has stopped, it feels the culture stayed frozen for a while and did not advance, they miss the modern approach we are used to in Europe and elsewhere, but this is what makes this country unique as well!
I will start by saying that Tunisia is immense, to visit it all, in all its gems, you’d need a month at least!
For this trip, we focused our exploring the land from Tunis (the capital & airport city) to Cap Bon.
Your perfect Plan for your week in Tunisia:
To do our same tour, you will need 6 full days approximately.
REMINDER: This blog allocates experiences in the way that saves the most time (spent on reaching areas) and energy! Isn’t it great? <3 ).
♥ Day 1: Drive to Kelibia
♥ Day 2: Relict of Karkara-Bateau
♥ Day 3: El Haouaria, Islands of Zembra & Zembretta
♥ Day 4: Hammamet, Nabeul
♥ Day 5: Sidi Bou Said & Chartage
♥ Day 6: Tunis
If you wish to find my map pins and easily follow them, follow me on mapstr!
Who to go with:
Tunisia is mostly a land for exploration and relaxation. There isn’t much partying to do! I would suggest going here with your partner, or family!
How long:
I think 1 week is the perfect time to enjoy this part of the country. If you wish to then continue to the south to explore the desert (Douza) and the islands (Djerba & Kerkennah) you can do so!
Where to stay for the night:
I have stayed in Kelibia, a very small fishing village in Cap Bon. We decided to stay here mostly because it was easier for us to reach the places we wanted to, and because the most beautiful beaches were here. But I will give you also a second option here:
Staying there, we can definitely say that the best houses to enjoy this experience at best are the ones on the beach. As soon as you get in inland (in the center) there is chaos and dirt!
Note: overall, we did not love the city of Kelibia for one main aspect you should be aware of. It’s not a “clean” place, there is no normal restaurant (only fast food). Therefore, if you stay here, you shall opt for eating at home for the nights you won’t be around visiting.
We loved Hammamet’s life. You can definitely see how the quality of life here is much higher, you can find nice restaurants, and walking around has a different vibe!
Though, considering the destinations we planned for this trip, Hammamet was 1.30h further from everything, so it was not worth the distance! It depends on what your plan is :).
If you stay here, opt for a house in the Medina, which is the Old Town. The one you see in the picture with white-painted walls, and blue-painted doors! You can find villas and apartments of this kind.
Rent your car:
We rented a car last minute on Rental Cars, but only once there we found out that “Dimacar” is the local rental and the cars are something like 1/3 cheaper! Check it out :).
TUNISIA
Key information on the country:
Tunisia, located in Northern Africa by the Mediterranean Sea, neighbors Algeria and Libya. Its geography ranges from mountains in the north to a semiarid south merging into the Sahara. It's a republic and it's part of the Arab League.
The country has a rich history. Carthage, founded by Dido, became a powerful city in antiquity. After conflicts with Rome, Tunisia was ruled by various Islamic dynasties, then came under French colonial rule. Independence was ultimately achieved in 1956, leading to social progress and economic modernization efforts.
Tunis, the capital, showcases a blend of ancient Arab elements and modern architecture. Other cities like Sfax, Sousse, Gabès, Kairouan, and El-Kef contribute to the diverse culture.
Capital city
TUNIS
Official language:
ARABIC (But most locals speak french as it’s the second spoken language! The third would be Berber but that’s south on the desert)
Population
12 MILLION
Religion
ISLAM mostly
Currency
TUNISIAN DINARS (TND)
Weather
Mediterranean climate
Nationality
TUNISIAN
Interesting notes:
1)
The Romans ruled over Tunisia for approximately 800 years. This was followed by the Arabs, the Ottomans, and then the French from whom the Tunisians gained independence in 1956.
2)
Tunisia has actually been the pick for many movie locations, even Hollywood flicks and most significantly, Star Wars!
3)
The famous Arab Spring, which rocked the Maghreb and some parts of the middle east between 2010-2012, started in Tunisia.
The Arab Spring was a revolution against the government because of corruption and economic stagnation. It is hard to say whether the revolution was successful in all participating countries, although many rulers were deposed at the time.
Regardless, the revolution started in Tunisia and spread widely across Libya, Egypt, Yemen, and Syria, among many other countries. It led to many uprisings and civil wars, with large street demonstrations in some countries. Ultimately, the government rule in Tunisian got better.
4)
The Medina Of Tunis Has Over 700 Historic Monuments. The Medina of Tunis is famous for its unique interaction between socio-cultural activities, architecture, economics, and urban life of the ancient human settlements within the Maghreb in 698 AD. It is for this reason that the Medina of Tunis was inscribed as one of Tunisia's UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1979. This historic Medina contains 700 monuments including mosques, madrasas, palaces, mausoleums, and fountains. Examples of these monuments are the noble houses of Dar Lasram and Dar Hussein, the El Attarine military barracks, and the mosques of Zitouna and Kasbah.
5)
Red Is The Color Of Mourning In Tunisia. In most Western cultures, people wear black clothing to funerals. However, in countries such as South Africa, Ghana, and Tunisia, red is the color symbolizing mourning. Other countries have varied practices. For instance, the color of mourning in Thailand, Myanmar, and Iran are purple, yellow, and blue respectively.
6)
Tunisia is the first Arab country which banned polygamy.
According to the Koran and Sharia, a Muslim man has a right to marry four wives at the same time and he needs to deal justly with all of them. A Muslim woman can have only one husband at the same time.
In 1956 Tunisia was the first Arab country to ban polygamy. According to Tunisian law having more than one marriage at the same time is prohibited and persons involved in polygamy will be punished. In countries where Islam is a major religion often polygamy is allowed according to civil law.
7)
Tunisia is the country of Harissa! Harissa is a Tunisian hot chili pepper paste. It is made of dried chili peppers, olive oil, garlic, salt, caraway, and coriander. The canned harissa is often made out of those ingredients but some changes are between the brands. Then there is a thing called homemade harissa and normally every house/woman has their own right way to do it.
On your stay in Tunisia, very fast you get to know this hot chili paste as it’s served everywhere and all the time. It’s an important ingredient in many Tunisian traditional dishes, widely used in different kinds of street food, in the restaurants harissa is often served on a small plate with some olive oil and mayo (you eat it with bread), you find it inside crepes, omelets, baguettes, and some people eat it just like that directly from the can.
8)
The flag of Tunisia is red with a white circle, crescent, and star. The red color stands for the sacrifices made for their own country, it represents the blood of the martyrs who fought for their country. The white color symbolizes peace. The five-pointed star represents the five pillars of Islam which are the foundation of being Muslim. The crescent is a traditional symbol of Islam.
9)
Driving in Tunisia can get really fun!
Some of the strangest things we noticed (mostly in Kelibia, which again is a small village so that explains!):
Most locals drive scooters carrying their entire family, usually, they get up to 4 people (babies included, carried on them) on one scooter only.
They never wear a protective helmet, even if the law enforces it. Funny enough: not even the policemen on scooters were wearing one!
When queuing (and for them, queueing means having 2-3 cars one after the other) on the highway, they put their hazard lights on.
There are street lights, yes, on the highways, but they don’t get switched on! You will barely drive in the dark most of the time…
Some roundabouts are not on google maps, you will randomly see one and have to stop instantaneously
There are constant deviations on the road due to road works.
There are plenty of road humps, and they are signaled on highways only a few meters before, most of the time the signals are not even visible… be careful or you will fly with your car!
♥ Day 1: Kelibia
If you wish to find my map pins and easily follow them during your trip, follow me on mapstr!
✿ Relax at “El Mansourah” Beach or “Petite Paris”
It’s two beaches standing one next to the other. The beach “Plage du Petit Paris” is smaller, and cuter, according to my taste. The water is more accessible (no rocks on the shore). It’s also fuller of people though!
You can have lunch & / OR dinner in these two places:
Palm Beach: this is a small restaurant on the sand on the beach of El Mansourah. It’s very easygoing, they grill “Poisson du jour” (the fish of the day) and it was very good! They usually then create a mixed plate with other things (a salad, some peppers, even pasta… but as true Italians, we disregarded them and just ate the fish!).
Mansoura Restaurant: this is a very beautiful location. We only had a drink here, but this was suggested as the best reastaurant on Kelibia!
✿ Do grocery at the local fruit & vegetable stands
The quality of the fruit & vegetables is very high, we ate sweet melon, tasty tomatoes, and potatoes, the grape was amazing … I recommend you to clean it well with bottled water though!
♥ Day 2: Plage de Sidi Mansour & Ship Wreck of Karkara-bateau
✿ Karkara-bateau & Plage Sidi Mansour
There is a ship wreck in the middle of light blue waters, probably one of the most beautiful beaches here! The landscape with the relict is very suggestive!
✿ Visit the Port de Peche
The local Port, called Port Hayder Troudi, is the place where all the fish gets purchased by locals to prepare your poisson du jour. It’s the base of the locals’ diet and is the engine of the village!
You should visit it just to live the experience of a port that we are not used to! You will discover how they create their tools to fish, how they handle boats outside of the water, how the local boats are made. It was all very unique!
♥ Day 3: El Haouaria
If you wish to find my map pins and easily follow them during your trip, follow me on mapstr!
✿ Relax at Hawaria Est Beach
This is a very petite location that only locals know about, it’s not even labeled in google maps, and Hawaria est is the name of the trail that beings from this point. It’s called Hawaira est and I am linking you to the spot! You won’t find any tourists here.
I have to admit, probably also because of my personal taste, this was the place I liked the most. I am not a huge fan of white sand beaches full of tourists, yes the seawater might be 100 times better, but the confusion overall makes my personal experience not great. This place, with rocks instead of sand, and with a very very short beach length, made my mood amazing. There were Tunisian songs playing in the background from the restaurant that owns this shore, there were gazebos built for you to eat something, play cards, do whatever…
You have a very small area to place your towels to tan, it’s true, but the rocks nearby can be your place to lie down. The water was crystal clear, it definitely gave another vibe to Tunisia! It was a very relaxing place overall.
✿ Explore the islands of Zembra & Zembretta from El Haouaria Port
At their local port, Haouaria Port, you can buy tickets for a boat ride to bring you to the sea caves and to visit the islands of Zembra & Zembretta!
✿ Continue your drive north to watch a stunning sunset from the Cap Bon Lighthouse
If you follow the map route to this location here, the Cap Bon Extremity, you will easily reach the spot where the sunset is visible. I suggest you go to the top peak. The sunset is stunning thanks to the “Zembra” and “Zembretta” Islands that are just in front! NO words needed here, it was very romantic and we were basically alone with 2 or 3 more tourists.
This is a very hidden gem, no guide will bring you here, you’re welcome!
♥ Day 4: Hammamet (with Nabeul & Yasmine Hammamet)
If you wish to find my map pins and easily follow them during your trip, follow me on mapstr!
✎ On the way to the cities, see Flamingos!
Whilst driving south, we couldn’t but notice a lake called Flamingo Salt Lake and we stopped by it!
Flamingos stay at this salt lake before flying to Turkey’s Salt Lake (the Toz Golu).
✎ Nabeul
It was definitely not among the best cities I have seen in Tunisia, but the Medina (the old Town) was very cute, with open markets stands, local vendors, and bars. We just stopped by to get a coffee and continue our trip south!
✿ Visit Hammamet! First: the Medina (the Old Town)
The Medina is the Old Town that resides within the walls of the Fort, the Kasbah! You can enter it from this entrance here.
Inside, you will walk around blue-painted doors and walls, cute cats playing with each other or sleeping with souvenirs, locals hanging out together.
This place was definitely worth the drive, for my eyes & for living the real tunisia experience!
✿ Buy local souvenirs at Dar Zayane
It won’t be easy to find as it’s not on google maps, but it should be at this spot here, I saved the google maps location!
The shop is owned but a very cute lady, the ONLY one in the entire Medina that did not push you to see her shop, like all other street vendors that tend to be very aggressive sometimes!
She has handmade pieces for a very small price, they are all hand painted and special!
✿ Shop Local Art at the Art Gallery
Dar Sidi Abdallah is an art gallery at the end of the Medina which is selling hand-painted paintings of any size, all inspired by and portraying the local landscape and life.
✿ Visit the International Cultural Centre, Dar Sebastien
Dar Sebastien is the local international culture center. The architecture is very beautiful and only that makes it worth a visit; besides, they organize annual events here, especially during August!
✿ Have Dinner in Hammamet
Whilst Kelibia is not the best spot for evening dinners, Hammamet offers quite a variety of spots!
I will give you a list of the best ones, of course suggested by locals!
Le Pecheur: this is, according to locals, the best restaurant in town! The quality of the fish, and of the cous cous, is awesome! The location is nothing special, actually is very basic with some plastic chairs in the middle of the street. So if you want to eat well, cheap and don’t care about the location, this is the place for you!
Chez Achour: this is the location we opted for! It’s more expensive, but the location is amazing (all within nature) and the food quality is also great. We had cous cous & octopus, both tasty!
Le Barberousse: this was also suggested to us, we did not go there, because from the online pictures the location did not look nice, but the food they say is very good quality!
♥ Day 5: Sidi Bou Said, Chartage, La Golette
If you wish to find my map pins and easily follow them during your trip, follow me on mapstr!
✿ Rent an apartment in Sidi Bou Said
You can find white villas or apartments with the typical blue balconies of the city! The balconies are called “Mashrabbiyya”, and they are made in a way that those who live inside can see the outside, but from outside people can’t see what’s going on inside the house! They look fabulous and they give the right feeling about visitng or living in this small town!
✿ Visit Sidi Bou Said
Known for its cobbled streets and blue-and-white houses, Sidi Bou Said is a charming town on a promontory overlooking the Mediterranean, with al fresco cafes, Tunisian eateries, and small art galleries.
You can start your visit by parking the car here at the Tourists Parking LM-9 (BE CAREFUL not to leave the car parked on the side of the street. When they spot non-local car plates parked there, they put a wheel clamp and you have to pay the fine to get it removed).
Then walk to the starting point of Sidi Bou Said Medina (the Old Part of the town).
✿ Have a view tourists don’t know about!
A local suggested we do a tour of Sidi bou said starting from the top of the hill where tourists don’t know to go!
There is this hidden panoramic view on top of the cemetery that gives you a beautiful view of the landscape of blue and green waters and nature!
✿ Rest at Hadj Amor & have a beautiful (private) view of the city!
The Hadj Amor cafè is right at the starting point of the street of Sidi Bou Said, it’s cute under the lemon trees, a place where you can rest and…surprise…
…there is a local shop right next to the outside tables, the spot is this, that has souvenirs on the ground floor, but an Art Gallery on the first floor and finally a beautiful terrace with a view at the top! Just ask the vendor to let you go there :).
✎ Alternatively, you can rest at this other cafè, Kahoua El Alia
This is a Tea House, they are very typical in Tunisia, and it has cute tables on the terrace to admire Sidi Bou Said from the top! It’s usually crowded but you can try!
✎ Shop local tobacco at the Tabac stand in front if the cafè!
You can find it here.
✿Have lunch at Cafè Des Delices
Very unique and colorful cafè with a view on the sea!
✎ Walk to the Port & Enjoy sandy beaches
If you wish to have some beach moment, you can walk towards the Harbor Sidi Bou Said and relax at the Sidi Bou Said Beach.
You will need a lot of relaxation if you head there by foot, the route to get there has 365 steps, is very steep and on the way back, you need to go back up! Alternatively, you could reach it by car!
✿ Have dinner at Dar Dallaji
Dar Dallaji is a very local and unique restaurant, inside the interior is in they very traditional Tunisian style!
✿ Visit Chartage
Carthage is a seaside suburb of Tunis and is known for its ancient archaeological sites. Founded by the Phoenicians in the first millennium B.C., it was once the seat of the powerful Carthaginian (Punic) Empire, which fell to Rome in the 2nd century B.C. Today it retains a scattered collection of ancient baths, theaters, villas and other ruins, many with sweeping views of the Gulf of Tunis.
You can buy a ticket in any of the 8 archeological sites, the ticket will be valid for all the sites, so keep it and use it in all entrances!
The key three sites are:
✎ Visit La Goulette
♥ Day 6: Tunisi
✿ Visit the Medina (Old Town)
La Medina is a place you want to visit by foot, leave the car at one of the entrances, like this, and walk!
The main interest point is the Ez-Zitouna Mosque, and by walking around you will easily find your path!
We saw it by night too, it was very suggestive!
You can stop by Café Slimania, to live the local life drinking tea, playing card, hangingout together.
✿ Have dinner in the Medina
The best restaurants (ps: they are all closed on Sundays) are in the Medina.
We also tried the “Nouvelle Ville” which stands for the new city, or the modern neighborhood, but only fast foods and low-quality restaurants are there!